The king is renowned for
His economical mindset regarding style
, while the
Princess of Wales
recently
highlighted the happiness she experiences
from being capable of saving her children’s clothing for future use.
Now, an
exhibition at Kensington Palace
will demonstrate how embracing the reuse and recurrence of clothing items has been a consistent practice within the Royal family across multiple generations.
From one of
Queen Victoria’s mourning dresses
Transferred from a servant, to a dress once worn by Elizabeth II during her childhood and later meticulously restored, along with a ceremonial uniform that was used and refurbished over fifty years, “Dress Codes” highlights how individuals across all social strata have historically placed significant importance on attire.
Visitors will see the
The Duke of Windsor’s plaid outfit
, which he acquired from his father, George V, in 1936 and continued to wear for approximately two more decades after updating it, was shown alongside
Evening dresses sported by Diana, Princess of Wales
who subsequently listed them for auction to breathe new life into them.
Matthew Storey, who curates for Historic Royal Palaces, expressed his hope that the exhibit would assist contemporary viewers in looking backward and “rediscovering” the appreciation previous generations had for repurposing and recycling clothing.
Speaking of the modern
scourge of fast fashion
He remarked, “Sustainability is constantly discussed these days; it has become such a significant issue. However, we aren’t really coming up with something new here. Instead, this is all about revisiting practices from our grandparents’ era when sustainable living was just common sense.”
So it’s essentially about rediscovering what once existed, practices that people followed for hundreds of years. They possessed the abilities needed to ensure clothing would endure.
Mr. Storey expressed his hope that the exhibition could inspire guests to contemplate the numerous methods of recycling clothing and the narratives that vintage attire can share.
“Clothes and fabrics have become considerably more affordable thanks to large-scale manufacturing,” he noted.
For most of human history, textiles held great value and everything was crafted by hand. As a result, people cherished each piece of fabric — this explains why they reused clothing, altered garments, and created patchwork…
Dress Codes examines the messages conveyed by the attire worn by members of the Royal family and palace guests, adhering to the unspoken ‘dress codes’.
power dressing
And the various elements involved in choosing an outfit when traveling internationally, like weather conditions and cultural norms.
Taking over three years to complete, this exhibition features 34 pieces, with 15 being shown publicly for the first time ever.
The initial piece showcased is a crimson Bruce Oldfield dress that was previously worn by the deceased.
Princess of Wales
During her official trip to Saudi Arabia in 1986, one of the 17 outfits she brought along was
Sold at Christie’s in 1997
, securing $3.2 million for HIV, AIDS, and cancer charities.
“This constitutes her professional attire, which she ultimately turned into a means of support by selling it off for charitable causes close to her heart,” Mr. Storey mentioned.
This is another thing she accomplished during her life. She dressed mannequins in these garments, distributed reproductions of the catalog, and sent them out into the world.
The traditional uniform of a postillion, which is adorned by grooms who lead royal carriages, made its debut during King Edward VII’s rule in 1902. This distinctive attire saw repeated repairs and reuse across more than fifty years until an additional cipher was incorporated for the 1953 coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. The event coincided with inclement weather, causing the dye from the blue velvet elements to run onto the red wool fabric.
The names of its different owners have been inscribed and then scratched out inside the lining.
The dress known as “Elsewhere” is believed to have been worn at Queen Victoria’s 1700s-themed event held in June 1845.
The purpose of the event was to boost the British silk industry, hence all 1,200 attendees were expected to purchase new outfits.
“This guest, by repurposing 18th-century silk, somewhat challenged that notion, yet also provided us with an excellent model of sustainability and reuse,” Mr. Storey stated.
One of multiple pieces that have never previously been exhibited publicly is a black bodice worn by Queen Victoria shortly following Prince Albert’s demise.
It’s incredibly uncommon,” stated Mr. Storey. “There are very few garments left from the 1870s, likely because she saw little reason to keep them.
This fortunate circumstance allowed it to be entrusted to a member of a royal household’s staff, who then handed it down through their lineage, thus ensuring its preservation.
He added that the garment conveys her “total emotional breakdown.”
In 2018, it was purchased by Historic Royal Palaces through an auction process. Mr. Storey mentioned that it wasn’t unusual for regal attire to be handed down to servants, often so they could repurpose the material or retain it as a keepsake.
“It would’ve been worthwhile,” Mr. Storey stated.
“In earlier times, there was a greater emphasis on secondhand clothing due to the higher cost of textiles compared to the cheaper, mass-produced fabrics we use nowadays.”
One of the three garments showcased that belonged to the Duke of Windsor — a style icon famous for his fashion sense — is an 1897 Rothesay Hunting tartan outfit he received from his father. This ensemble was later modified with contemporary features such as a zipper and reduced buttonholes.
Two identical Liberty-print floral cotton dresses from 1936, worn by a youthful Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret, provide an intriguing glimpse into their home life. These dresses feature a hand-stitched hem and adjustable waists achieved through letting out the fabric.
If you look into Queen Elizabeth’s early life, she exhibited a particular type of ingenuity and frugality,” Mr. Storey mentioned. “She would save and reuse gift wrap. However, this was a common practice for people during the 1930s.
Dress Codes opens to the public on March 13 and will run until Nov 30.
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