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Rory Tingle from MailOnline explores the culinary delights of North Yorkshire.
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With its medieval walls, majestic cathedral and narrow streets overhung by half-timbered townhouses, York is an unmissable destination for history lovers.
But while the hordes of excited children wearing horned helmets for the annual Jorvik Viking Festival prove the heritage factor remains a major pull for visitors, that’s not the reason I’m here.
Yorkshire is progressively establishing itself as one of Britain’s premier culinary destinations, and the
The 2025 edition of the AA Restaurant Guide featured 73 establishments in North Yorkshire—more than any other county, significantly surpassing Devon, which ranked second with 58 restaurants.
Given this, my partner and I are set to explore York’s gastronomic scene to discover all it has to offer — beginning with a guided stroll led by the individual behind a food blog.
York on a Fork
, Ben Thorpe.
Following his departure from what he deemed a ‘dull’ profession in financial services, Ben now organizes food tours throughout York. He takes participants to visit nine of his preferred eateries, ensuring they get to sample some delicious dishes or drinks at each location.
If there’s one way to feel the pulse of the food scene in Yorkshire’s spiritual capital, this is the way to do it!
Our initial destination is Ippuku Tea House, conceived by the married duo Frankie and Tatsu Ozaki.
Hailing from
Saltburn
, in North Yorkshire, Frankie is the youngest of two siblings, both of whom married Japanese men.
Now, she’s dedicated to introducing the genuine flavors of Japan to God’s Own Country, offering patrons a tofu rice dish accompanied by pickles and gyoza, all served with a piping hot serving of freshly brewed Sencha tea, known for its vibrant, herbaceous notes.
Up next, Ben treats us to a small serving of ‘fish and chip shop chips’ at Drakes Fisheries. The dish features a deliciously rich and impeccably crisp batter paired with addictive fries, demonstrating that frying in beef tallow surpasses the use of vegetable oil typically favored further south.
Following a brief stroll, we arrive at The Shambles, York’s renowned thoroughfare and once the central point for its meat industry—reflected in the butcher’s hooks that remain suspended over certain shop windows.
Given this heritage, it seems appropriate to enjoy a smoked pork taco at Shambles Kitchen, before heading to a new patisserie and cafe founded by Florian Poirot, the master pastry chef whose exquisite macarons and chocolates have made him a huge hit since he set up his first shop in nearby Malton in 2017.
Ben also introduces us to York’s role in Britain’s gin resurgence through York Gin—a brand known for crafting a range of accolade-winning spirits that draw inspiration from notable locals—before leading to four additional destinations where Ambiente Tapas stands out as a favorite. This eatery offers a Spanish-themed dining experience coupled with a selection of sherries, complemented by its enthusiastic and welcoming team.
A recurring highlight during his tours is Love Cheese, an intimate and eccentric cheese store and bar known as ‘the world’s premier Speakcheesey’.
On another occasion, we come back to enjoy the ‘Afternoon Cheese,’ an entertaining twist on the classic British tradition. This features five types of cheese served on a three-level platter overflowing with cured meats, olives, pickles, chutney, crackers, and bread sourced from the nearby town of Haxby.
Every cheese is carefully selected by the exceptionally informed store proprietor, Jordan, who engages in friendly banter with patrons as he offers personalized recommendations to meet their individual cheese requirements.
As well as cheese, York is known for its chocolate, with confectionary giant Terry’s founded in the city in 1767 before an overseas takeover saw production move to France in 2005.
The company’s Grade-II listed, previously manufacturing facility which had an overlook of York Racecourse stood vacant for several years prior to its transformation into high-end residential units.
Fortunately for food lovers, it’s also now home to
The Old Liquor Store
, an Italian-influenced restaurant, bar and wine shop run by seasoned restaurateur Ben Williams.
Its head chef, Matt Leivers, was poached from the Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome – making it an obvious stop on any foodie trip to York.
Popping in for dinner, we enjoy an impressive line-up of stunningly presented dishes that deliver big flavours without any hint of fussiness or mean portions.
My choice of main is a pan-seared seabass fillet with rice noodles and Asian greens.
But it’s my pudding that is a standout – a caramelised white chocolate panna cotta topped with biscuit crumble and shards of crisp, citrusy Granny Smith apples.
For demonstrating reinvention, The Old Liquor Store seamlessly integrates with a city where numerous structures exhibit evidence of extensive adaptation and reuse throughout their histories.
This is particularly evident in the Museum Gardens, where the remains of a Benedictine abbey and an ancient hospital share ground with a Roman tower, a local church, and the neoclassical Yorkshire Museum.
Beneath the scowling gargoyles and majestic Gothic arches of York Minster lies the Undercroft, which unveils remnants of a Roman fortification along with an Anglo-Saxon burial ground, all nestled among the Norman foundational structures of the present-day cathedral.
As you explore the city’s culinary scene, don’t miss out on hidden treasures such as All Saints’ Church located on North Street. This historic site features a 15th-century window depicting scenes from the end times, alongside intricately styled angels gazing down from the elaborate hammer-beam ceiling.
York’s small-scale medieval layout makes the city quite pedestrian-friendly, especially when you make use of the shortcuts offered by its intricate network of concealed lanes called Snickelways.
And if you ever feel exhausted from all that walking, rest assured that there will always be a place close by where you can grab something to eat!
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